Glossary
'Active' is bandied about a lot in the skincare world, and is meant to imply an ingredient that interacts with the skin on a cellular level. While a surface layer of olive oil could effect the behavior of cells deeper in the skin, 'active' implies a more direct communication; that the ingredient works with messaging mechanisms of the cells and signals them to make more collagen, increase turnover, etc.
Cutis (aka Dermis)
This is the supporting layer of the skin - the key to its resiliency, responsiveness and health.
Dynamic Wrinkles
Wrinkles that are caused by repetitive movement (also helped along by sun damage and lifestyle choices). Favorite metaphor: a well worn path through a meadow. e.g. crow’s feet, smile lines, lip lines, scowl line.
A substance that is injected into the skin intended to fill depressions, (e.g. wrinkles, acne scarring, cheek hollows), or increase volume (e.g. lip augmentation, simulated cheekbones).
Epidermis
The topmost layers of the skin, often considered ‘dead skin’ (although we now know there’s a little life left in those keratinized flakes).
Filler
See Dermal Filler
The French Conundrum
An expression of French origin which goes something like this:
"After 40, it’s the face or the ass'.
The subcutaneous fat that gives skin its youthful fullness thins as we age. If thin to start with, you will look increasingly gaunt – if you have a couple extra pounds on you, the loss of facial fat is less noticeable, but then you may worry about your ass looking big…
HA occurs naturally in our bodies, and is a systemic lubricant. Officially: A glycosaminogycan, a carbohydrate polymer that is found in the ‘extracellular matrix’, and is part of the synovial fluid that keeps joints moving smoothly. Unofficially: Goo. HA is the main active ingredient in Restylane and Captique, two popular dermal fillers. It is also often used in moisturizers for its hydrating properties.
An area of skin that darkens beyond normal pigmentation. This word applies to a host of common complaints such as sun spots, freckles, and melasma.
More dreaded than hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation is an absence of pigment - some people get little white 'freckles' on their arm from sun damage, this is an example of hypopigmentation. It is a dreaded condition because it is difficult if not impossible to correct.
Anything that is conveyed into the skin/body via a needle. In the cosmetic world, the term injectables usually refers to Botox and dermal fillers.
IPL - Intense Pulsed Light (aka Fotofacial)
A light-based treatment that selectively heats up certain lesions of the skin, i.e. vascular lesions (broken capillaries) and pigmentary lesions (brown spots), with the aim of damaging or destroying them.
Also referred to 'pregnancy mask' because it appears often for the first time during pregnancy , melasma is patchy hyperpigmentation usually found around the cheeks and forehead, and attributed to hormonal fluctuations.
Microdermabrasion sands away the topmost layers of the skin. A wand-like handpiece is used that simultaneously abrades the skin with a fine stream of crystals and vacuums up the crystals and skin cells. The skin benefits from the exfoliation and the suction, both of which increase circulation.
Sometimes, instead of crystals, a diamond-tip wand is used. Favorite esthetician analogy: "it feels like a cat licking you".
The current trend in skincare is towards 'non-invasive' treatments, that is treatments that will not require a lot of downtime. Although many are touted as non-invasive, most effective treatments and procedures may leave a temporary sign of irritation, such as light scabbing, bruising, redness or swelling.
Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation
The skin has a tendency to produce pigment as a way of protecting itself (e.g.a tan). While this usually fades, some skin will retain the hyperpigmentation long after the injury has healed - for instance a brown stain that remains long after an acne lesion has healed.
This tendency is more common in darker skin types.
Retinoids are a class of vitmain A related ingredients used to treat acne and to reverse sun damage in skincare.
Prescription retinoids include Retin-A, Differen, Tazorac and tretinoin.
Retinol is an over-the-counter retinoid used in anti-aging formulas.
Skin care products should be applied in order of thickness - in other words, thinner products (more liquidity) are applied first. The reasoning behind this is that the amount of oil used in thicker emulsions will prevent active ingredients from penetrating, which is why newer, expensive ingredients are often sold in serums (a thinner medium).
A common application order is serums, gels, lotions, creams. Sunscreen is always applied last (before makeup).
Smoker's Lines
Vertical lip lines that go up (or down for the lower lip) from the lip perimeter. Called smoker's lines because the accumulated damage from cigarettes helps form these wrinkles, but unfortunately, they are not exclusive to smokers.
Subcutaneous
Under the skin (see Cutis).
TCA - Trichloracetic Acid
An acid commonly used in medical strength peels that targets fine lines and hyperpigmentation.
Vague Esthetician Terminology (VET)
See accompanying article.
An acronym for words which are used either because a) legal reasons prevent the esthetician from being more forthcoming (e.g. the product or treatment will have an effect beyond the epidermis) or b) they are treading a fine line – wanting to be encouraging while not wanting to be misleading.
Some of these words are: brightening, freshening, smoothing, minimizing, firming, plumping, easing, softening, glowing, hydrating, revitalizing, and stimulating.
This practice is not exclusive to estheticians.
The border of the lips. Often referred to in regards to dermal fillers as the vermillion border has a channel that can be expanded with a filler, giving a more defined look.
