Fan Brush of Fury - Rx Retinoid Rebuttal
So in the last article we revealed a long-standing feud between estheticians and Rx retinoids, and the grievances behind it. Just how legitimate are they? Here are the common complaints reviewed - just click on the header if you want to read the original complaint:
Inflammation (e.g. too much stimulaton)
So are Rx retinoids just too much of a good thing? It’s skin-dependent. The way we categorize skin may sound politically incorrect, but one way we type is by color (or quantity of melanin in the skin) and often find different treatments work better on different skin types.
In my experience, the ones who must proceed with caution when it comes to Rx retinoids are the same ones who are most prone to rosacea – the wan, celtic types (I’m raising my hand here) whose skin was never really geared to handle a lot of sunlight or stimulation.
This type is usually the most sensitive, prone to redness (and may acquire visible broken vessels) and can also appear thinner on Rx retinoids– or as one writer described it, have skin ‘like thinly sliced prosciutto’.
Skin types with more melanin – Asian, Mediterranean, African, Indian - seem to have better success with retinoid regimes. And given that darker skin types tend to hyperpigment more easily, this is good news as a strong prescribed retinoid combined with hydroquinone is one of the only truly effective treatment approaches for this condition (there’s more on this digression here if you’re interested).
Most skin adapts to retinoids, and this suggests it’s not asking more of the skin than it can deliver – but then, there are some people who will never lose the rosey glow an Rx retinoid cream imparts. While that’s often promoted as a perk of the regime, it is evidence of perpetual inflammation and in my books, not desirable.
Increased Sun Sensitivity
Well now, this is really interesting (to me, anyway!). While it’s always been a given, or as close as a given as you get in this industry that Rx retinoids increase sun sensitivity, there are recent studies that indicate they really don't. My personal experience tells me otherwise – but you should know there are dissenting voices out there.
Sun screen should be worn daily regardless. We’re so careful to stress the importance of sun screen to anyone using retinoids that I have to wonder how much of the benefit we see is attributable just to acquiring that habit?
Creates Fragility
Again, the degree to which this occurs is dependent on skin type, skin thickness,and the amount of oil on the skin (as the more naturally oily the skin, the less the retinoid will penetrate). But it absolutely occurs.
No one, regardless of skin type, should wax while using an Rx retinoid (obviously, over the same area the cream is being applied). Also, you must inform your esthetician of exactly which prescription cream you’re using. I’ve seen even a light peel cause a burn when a client went, against advice, to an esthetician after using 1% tretinoin.
The rest of the points estheticians complain about are really our problem to deal with – the limited treatment options, the limited product options and the biased education. The point here is – and this applies in general – you know your skin best. You’ll know if it’s looking irritated, or if it’s reddening faster in the sun, or if your acne seems to be calming down after a few weeks on an Rx retinoid regime,– you don’t need a scientific, double-blind study to tell you.
I’ve met women who have been on prescribed retinoid regimes for about 20 years – and yes, it works to maintain beautiful, healthy skin. I’ve met teenagers (and adults) who have finally received relief from their acne thanks to a prescribed retinoid. It’s a powerful ingredient that may work for you – and if you find it does, don’t let an industry bias stand in your way.
