Lip Lines - The Dramatic Solutions
First, if you smoke, and you’d like to try and reduce the effects (cosmetically, that is), make sure you’re taking antioxidants internally, apply them externally (via a vitamin C & E serum, for instance), use a moisturizer to counterbalance the drying effects of cigarettes, and of course, wear sunblock since you’re already inducing enough damage on your own. You may also, as discussed in the last article, try getting Botox injections in the lip to diminish the continual pursing that accompanies dragging on a cigarette, and try a filler such as collagen to reduce the depth of the lines.
Second, if you smoke, I wouldn’t recommend the more dramatic procedures discussed here. Skin saturated in cigarette smoke behaves abnormally – and the repair response diminishes. What this means is that more invasive treatments pose higher risks to smokers because the recovery process is unpredictable. It can be longer, and the longer the skin takes to recover the higher the risk for infection, and the greater risk of scarring. Quit, then give it a go.
So, even though we have exciting new treatments every day, such as Portrait, Fraxel and Thermage (oh my!), don't let anyone convince you these are up to the task. When it comes to a semi-permanent solution to lip lines, nothing works like the invasive, downtime-required procedures of not-to-distant yore.
Lip lines require a deep peel, and that just can't be done with subtlety. Basically, it’s a do over – the skin is removed to the base of the wrinkle, and when it regenerates, the new version is fresh and unlined (at least that's the goal). I’ve heard various predictions about how long the effects last – but five to six years is not unusual. It could be longer if you’re using good cosmetic products, sunscreen, and having Botox injections in the area.
So what type of peel would produce this result? Again, we're looking at the phonemonon discussed in You Get What They Paid For - it's doctor dependent. Some like to work with a C02 laser, a process called laser resurfacing, which to be blunt, is a controlled burn (or as controlled as possible). Other doctors work with strong chemical peeling solutions such as Tricholoracetic Acid (this is the main active ingredient of the well known Obagi Blue Peel – and essentially another controlled burn). The third and lowest-tech alternative is dermabrasion (not to be confused with microdermabrasion). Dermabrasion involves physically sanding away the skin to the desired level.
The upper lip can be done on its own, or part of a full face treatment (although typically dermabrasion is more of a spot treatment). While every doctor will have reasons why their treatment is the preferred one, any peel that goes deep comes with similar risks, regardless of how it got there – scarring, hyperpigmentation (skin darkens in the treated area – this is more common with darker skin tones), uneven texture, infection, lines of demarcation (either by a difference in texture, or sometimes the color stays a little pinker in the treated area), and a loss of natural pigmentation.
Probably more important than the choice of treatment is the doctor’s experience with it. This is what provides the critical discernment – the experienced doctor can tell whether the procedure suits your skin type, spot any danger signs during the treatment, and recommend proven pre- and post-treatment skincare to give you the best chance of a speedy recovery.
Recovery varies from person to person, as we all heal differently. Sometimes the redness from this type of deep peel will persist for a year, but as far as your social calendar, give yourself at least three weeks after the peel. At that point, you should be through the most dramatic stage of the healing process (e.g. scabbing) and you would then have the option of using make up to reduce redness.

